Once October is over, the Picos de Europa change pace. There are fewer people on the trails, the woods in the valley turn ochre and the peaks start to whiten. In exchange, the days are short and the weather has more say than in summer.
Daylight, weather and transport
- In November the sun sets around six in the evening, and at the bottom of the valleys the light goes sooner. Start longer walks in the morning.
- The weather changes fast: rain, fog and, from November, ice first thing on mountain roads. Check the AEMET forecast for Cabrales the day before and again in the morning.
- Out of season there is no bus from Arenas to Poncebos, so almost everything is done by car. The upside: none of the summer crowds.
The Covadonga Lakes: yes in November, by bus over the December holiday
In practice, November is the freest month of the year to drive up to the Lakes: the road is open except over the All Saints' holiday, and some years the last weekend has been restricted too. On weekdays you can normally drive up on your own, without rushing.
The December holiday is different: from 1 to 8 December the transport plan is in place, and you go up to the Lakes by bus from Cangas de Onís and the car parks in the valley. Outside summer the timetables are shorter, so check when the last bus down leaves.
From November you should expect ice, snow or fog up top even when the valley is clear. The full calendar, with its exceptions, is in driving up to the Covadonga Lakes.
The Cares and Bulnes, with short days
The Cares Trail starts in Poncebos, 6 km from Arenas. With few hours of daylight, the sensible option is to walk a section and turn back rather than attempt the full twenty-four kilometres there and back: the most spectacular part starts early on. In heavy rain or ice, leave it for another day.
From Poncebos you can also go up to Bulnes, on foot along the Canal del Texu or on the funicular, which runs every day of the year (it's how the villagers get about) and takes about 8 minutes. Timetables are published by ALSA. It's a good plan for an uncertain day: up, a walk round the village, and back down without depending on the light.
For rainy days
- The Cabrales Cheese Cave, in Arenas itself: a cave where you learn how Cabrales cheese matures. It's open all year, and the Fundación Cabrales recommends calling ahead to book (+34 985 84 67 02). In December it's closed on the afternoon of the 24th and on the 25th.
- The Foces del Casaño, about 15 minutes by car: a level path by the river, for an hour or two when the rain lets up.
- A long lunch in Arenas. It's a good time of year for a fabada and to watch cider being poured, unhurried.
The December holiday: book early
The Constitution and Immaculate Conception holiday (6 and 8 December) is the last long weekend before Christmas, busy enough that access to the Lakes is managed by bus on those days. Depending on which days the dates fall, it makes for a three- or four-night break, and it's worth booking accommodation weeks ahead. If you already have your dates, don't leave it to the last minute.
From El Ardinal
At this time of year, what you'll appreciate most in the apartments is the heating and the fireplace when you get back, the full kitchen for dinner in, and free private parking about 50 metres away. Check-in is self-service, so it doesn't matter what time you arrive in bad weather. If the Cares is your main plan, where to stay for the Cares Trail covers which apartment suits your group.
