Every autumn, in the forests of the Cantabrian Mountains, red deer stags roar to attract the hinds and fight over territory. This is the rut, la berrea in Spanish, and in the Picos de Europa you can hear it from late September.
When is the rut?
In the northern ranges, activity usually peaks between late September and early October, and it can carry on until mid or late October. It depends on the year, the altitude and the weather, so there is no guaranteed date.
Where to hear it
Within the Picos area, Asturian guides place the rut in Sajambre and in the Peloño Forest (Ponga). On the León side, the surroundings of Lario and Puebla de Lillo are recommended. Before you go, check access and current conditions at the park visitor centres (Casas del Parque) or with a local guide.
What time?
At dawn and at dusk. As a guide, Patrimonio Natural de Castilla y León suggests 8-9 am and 7.30-8.30 pm.
How to do it right
- Keep still and quiet: the animals go back to what they were doing shortly after you arrive.
- Stay on the paths, don't take shortcuts and don't park on the meadows.
- Use binoculars instead of getting closer: a stag in rut can be dangerous.
- Avoid torches and noise. Stress can disrupt the hinds' breeding cycle.
- If in doubt, book a guided outing.
Afterwards, the table
A morning at the rut calls for a good breakfast and a proper mountain lunch. For after the outing, we suggest Asturian fabada and Cabrales cheese.
Where to stay
Apartamentos El Ardinal is in Arenas de Cabrales, at the foot of the Picos de Europa: five apartments with fully equipped kitchens, so you can head out before dawn and come back for an unhurried breakfast. Before you set off, read our autumn mountain safety tips. And if you'd like to come back when the valley is celebrating, here are the fiestas of Arenas de Cabrales.
